Building a DIY Watch

In a world of smartwatches that demand constant attention and charging, I found myself feeling disconnected from the simple act of telling time. My Apple Watch, with its endless notifications, felt more like a distraction than a tool. My trusty Casio A158WEA-1 was a relief, but I yearned for something more.

Then, the call to adventure came, not as a shout, but as a whisper from the past. I started stumbling upon DIY watch projects, and a spark was ignited. The idea of building my own watch—a single, beautiful timepiece for every occasion—took hold of me. I was drawn to the classic, rugged look of field watches like the Hamilton Khaki Field Auto or the Timex MK1, but this was about more than just aesthetics.

This project was personal. My grandparents were both “Uhrmacher” (watchmakers), and building a watch felt like a way to honor their legacy. It was a chance to create something with my own hands that would connect me to my family’s history, a tangible link to their craft.

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But the call was not without its doubts. “How hard can it be?” I initially thought, but the question was quickly followed by a wave of uncertainty. Was I crazy to think I could do this myself? I’m a software engineer, not a watchmaker. The learning curve seemed steep, and the risk of failure felt high. For a moment, I almost abandoned the idea.

But the call was too strong to ignore. I decided to embrace the challenge, to step into the unknown. So, I started to make a plan.

Design and Inspiration

Before embarking on this project, I needed a vision. I created a moodboard to capture the aesthetic I was aiming for: a classic field watch with a modern twist. The design is heavily inspired by the timeless look of the Hamilton Khaki Field, but with personal touches that will make it uniquely mine.

The Plan: Entering the Special World

The plan is simple: buy all the necessary components from a marketplace like AliExpress, assemble them, and hope for the best. This approach should also be significantly cheaper. The Timex is around €280, and the Hamilton is €750. My DIY version should come in at just over €100.

Of course, there’s a trade-off in precision. The Timex is rated to be off by about 30 seconds per day, the Hamilton around 10 seconds, and the Seiko NH35 movement I’ve chosen is rated for -20 to +40 seconds per day. They all have some deviation, so it will be interesting to see how the final build performs in reality. This will be the first of many trials on my path.

The Parts: Gathering the Tools for the Build

Here are the parts I have in mind for the build. Every build needs its gear, and this is mine:

Why the Seiko NH35? The Heart of the Beast

Every watch build needs a reliable companion, and for this watch, that’s the Seiko NH35 movement. After some research, it became clear why the NH35 is the go-to choice for so many DIY watch builders. It’s known for being a reliable and robust workhorse, often lasting for years without maintenance. More importantly for a custom build like this, it’s affordable (around €50), widely available, and boasts a vast ecosystem of compatible aftermarket parts. This makes it incredibly flexible and forgiving for a beginner.

Key features that sold me on the NH35 are:

• Automatic and Manual Winding: It winds itself with the motion of my wrist, but I can also wind it manually.
• Hacking Second Hand: This allows me to stop the second hand when setting the time, for perfect synchronization.
• Proven Reliability: It’s a movement that has been tried and tested in millions of watches.

A quick note on the date function: the NH35 movement I chose does include a date complication. While I won’t be displaying the date on my chosen dial, I opted for the NH35 over the dateless NH38 because the latter is surprisingly more expensive. Since the mechanical movement doesn’t account for varying month lengths, I’d have to manually adjust it every month to keep it accurate. Given that commitment, I’m perfectly content not showing the date and just letting it run its course behind the dial.

You can read more about the NH35 on Sternglas and Rotate Watches.

Movement Comparison: The Heart of the Matter

A watch is more than just its case and dial; the movement is its beating heart. Here’s a comparison of the movements in the inspiration watches and my chosen DIY movement.

The Hamilton H-10 is the clear winner on paper, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. This means you can take it off for a whole weekend and it will still be ticking.

The Miyota 8215 in the Timex is a reliable, budget-friendly movement, but it lacks the “hacking” feature, which means the second hand doesn’t stop when you set the time.

My chosen Seiko NH35 sits comfortably in the middle. It has both hacking and manual winding, and it’s a well-respected, reliable movement that is perfect for a DIY project. While the official accuracy is broad, many builders report getting much better performance. It offers the best balance of features, reliability, and affordability for this project.

The Tools

Besides the watch components, I’ll also need a few specialized tools to assemble everything correctly.

With another €10-20 for these tools, the project should be complete.

What Could Go Wrong?

Every adventure has its perils. I’ve been researching the common mistakes that first-time watch builders make. Here’s what I’ll be trying to avoid:

Q: What if I use too much force? A: This seems to be the number one rule: be gentle. Watch components are incredibly delicate. Applying too much force can bend the hands, damage the movement, or break the stem. The key is to be patient and let the parts fit together naturally.

Q: What about dust and fingerprints? A: A clean workspace is crucial. A single speck of dust under the crystal or a fingerprint on the dial can ruin the final look. I’ll be using a dust blower and wearing finger cots to keep things pristine.

Q: What’s the most common irreversible mistake? A: Cutting the crown stem too short. The stem connects the crown to the movement, and if it’s too short, it’s useless. I’ll need to measure twice (or maybe three times) and cut once.

Q: How do I avoid messing up the hands? A: The hands, especially the second hand, are notoriously fragile. I’ll need to be careful not to bend them during installation. Also, it’s important to set the date to change at midnight before installing the hands, to avoid the date changing at noon.

You can find more tips and tricks from other builders on Instructables and in this Reddit thread.

The Resurrection: Bringing the Watch to Life

The parts arrived, and the day of assembly came. I had prepared for a struggle, for tiny screws to fly across the room and for delicate hands to bend under the slightest pressure. I had read the horror stories, the cautionary tales from other builders.

But my journey, while largely smooth, wasn’t without its minor challenges. The most delicate part was setting the tiny hands. They had to be perfectly aligned, and pressing too hard could damage the movement. I had to reset the minute hand a couple of times to get it just right – a delicate dance that felt like fixing a bug where you can’t just hit ‘undo’. Yet, overall, each component fit into place with a satisfying click, the pieces connecting as if they were always meant to be together. It felt less like a prolonged delicate surgery and more like building with LEGOs – a joyful and straightforward process of creation.

The result is a watch that is not just a tool, but a trophy. A testament to the journey.

I’ve documented the entire build process, and I will be sharing a video of it soon. It will be a visual guide for anyone who wants to embark on their own watchmaking adventure.

YouTube Link

The Return with the Elixir

So, the journey is complete. The parts have been assembled, and a new watch beats on my wrist. It’s more than just a timepiece; it’s a story, a connection to my family’s past, and a reminder that with a little bit of courage and a good plan, you can build something truly special.

This watch is my elixir. It’s the reward for facing the unknown and for embracing the challenge. And now, every time I check the time, I’ll be reminded of the adventure it took to create it.